Running Ethernet: Difference between revisions

(18 intermediate revisions by the same user not shown)

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* Ethernet Cable.

* [https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004D5RFCE/ RJ45 Plugs. 100 pack]

~~For more professional installs, you'll also want to have:~~

* Cat7 Ethernet Cable for 10 gigabit.

* [https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B004D5PFGW/ Keystones] [https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B074HHDJWT/ Wall Plates] [https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07DYFR8LM/ Mounting Brackets]

For outdoor runs, you'll need the following:

Line 14:

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** Or nails if you'd rather use a nail gun.

* [https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-1-lb-Plug-Duct-Seal-Compound-DS-110/100212441 Duct Seal] for filling holes.

;Extra Links to thing I did not use

* Cat6a Ethernet Cable for long 10 Gigabit runs.

* [https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B004D5PFGW/ Keystones]

* [https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B074HHDJWT/ Wall Plates]

* [https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07DYFR8LM/ Mounting Brackets]

===Ethernet Cable===

These days, you should be using Cat6~~, Cat6a,~~ or Cat7 ~~cables~~.

These days, you should be using Cat6 or 6A. Avoid Cat7/8 which are not real specs yet.

Cat6 is suitable for Gigabit runs up to 100 meters and 10 Gigabit up to 55 meters.

~~For longer 10 Gigabit runs though, you'll want either Cat6a or Cat7. Both support 10 Gigabit up to 100 meters.~~

Cat5e can do Gigabit and 2.5G over shorter distances.

~~Cat7 will also~~ do ~~40 Gb at 50 meters and 100 Gb at 15 meters.~~

~~Avoid Cat5 and 5e cables. These are fairly old standards and only marginally cheaper than Cat6.~~

~~Cat5 which came out in 1995 doesn't support~~ Gigabit.

~~Cat5e came out in 2000~~ and ~~supports Gigabit~~. ~~It is fine for short patch cables but I wouldn't run them~~.

* Avoid CCA (Copper clad aluminum) cables;. They're less reliable and less resilient to bending.

* Avoid CCA (Copper clad aluminum) cables. They're allegedly less reliable and less resilient to bending.

* Shielded cables are unnecessary for most installs. ~~You'll~~ only need them if you plan to run them along power lines~~. They're also more difficult to work with~~.

* Also avoid flat cables as they typically aren't up to spec and don't use twisted pairs.

* I~~'ve had luck with~~ [https://www.ebay.com/itm/401679433529 premiertek_official's 1000 ft Pure Copper Outdoor Cat6] on eBay.

* Shielded cables are unnecessary for most installs. Apparently, you only need them if you plan to run them along power lines.

* I used [https://www.ebay.com/itm/401679433529 premiertek_official's 1000 ft Pure Copper Outdoor Cat6] on eBay.

==Tools==

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* [https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AZK4G/ RJ45 Crimping Tool]

* [https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OQ21CA/ Wire Stripper]

If you are using keystones, you may want an [https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZK4D/ Punch Down Tool].

For outdoor runs, get the following:

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;Notes

* There are some cheap kits on amazon which include multiple items (e.g. crimper, wire stripper, tester, plugs). I ~~cannot comment on the quality of them~~.

* There are some cheap kits on amazon which include multiple items (e.g. crimper, wire stripper, tester, plugs). I did not buy those so IDK how good they are.

* The basic cable tester only ensures continuity. You should do a quick [[iperf3]] test to make sure you're getting the speeds you expect.

==Terminating Ethernet Cables==

~~[[File:Ethcable568a.gif | thumb | 500px | T568A (legacy)]]~~

[[File:Ethcable568b.gif | thumb | 500px | T568B (recommended)]]

[[File:Ethcable568a.gif | thumb | 250px | T568A]]

[https://incentre.net/ethernet-cable-color-coding-diagram/ Resource]

Line 58:

There are two standards for terminating ethernet cables: T568A and T568B.

~~T568B is the newer standard and the one I use.~~

It doesn't matter which standard you use as long as it is consistent on both ends of the cable.

==Resources==

* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7nkvbPos0dE LTT Running Outdoor Ethernet]

** For entertainment and showing how to hide runs.

* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=noRk8jYAbSg How to Crimp Ethernet by AAFTech]

==References==

@@ Line 5: / Line 5: @@
 * Ethernet Cable.
 * [https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004D5RFCE/ RJ45 Plugs. 100 pack]
-For more professional installs, you'll also want to have:
-* Cat7 Ethernet Cable for 10 gigabit.
-* [https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B004D5PFGW/ Keystones] [https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B074HHDJWT/ Wall Plates] [https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07DYFR8LM/ Mounting Brackets]
 For outdoor runs, you'll need the following:
@@ Line 14: / Line 10: @@
 ** Or nails if you'd rather use a nail gun.
 * [https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-1-lb-Plug-Duct-Seal-Compound-DS-110/100212441 Duct Seal] for filling holes.
+;Extra Links to thing I did not use
+* Cat6a Ethernet Cable for long 10 Gigabit runs.
+* [https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B004D5PFGW/ Keystones]
+* [https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B074HHDJWT/ Wall Plates]
+* [https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07DYFR8LM/ Mounting Brackets]
 ===Ethernet Cable===
-These days, you should be using Cat6, Cat6a, or Cat7 cables.
+These days, you should be using Cat6 or 6A. Avoid Cat7/8 which are not real specs yet.
 Cat6 is suitable for Gigabit runs up to 100 meters and 10 Gigabit up to 55 meters.
-For longer 10 Gigabit runs though, you'll want either Cat6a or Cat7. Both support 10 Gigabit up to 100 meters.
+Cat5e can do Gigabit and 2.5G over shorter distances.
-Cat7 will also do 40 Gb at 50 meters and 100 Gb at 15 meters.
-Avoid Cat5 and 5e cables. These are fairly old standards and only marginally cheaper than Cat6.
-Cat5 which came out in 1995 doesn't support Gigabit.
-Cat5e came out in 2000 and supports Gigabit. It is fine for short patch cables but I wouldn't run them.
-* Avoid CCA (Copper clad aluminum) cables;. They're less reliable and less resilient to bending.
+* Avoid CCA (Copper clad aluminum) cables. They're allegedly less reliable and less resilient to bending.
-* Shielded cables are unnecessary for most installs. You'll only need them if you plan to run them along power lines. They're also more difficult to work with.
+* Also avoid flat cables as they typically aren't up to spec and don't use twisted pairs.
-* I've had luck with [https://www.ebay.com/itm/401679433529 premiertek_official's 1000 ft Pure Copper Outdoor Cat6] on eBay.
+* Shielded cables are unnecessary for most installs. Apparently, you only need them if you plan to run them along power lines.
+* I used [https://www.ebay.com/itm/401679433529 premiertek_official's 1000 ft Pure Copper Outdoor Cat6] on eBay.
 ==Tools==
@@ Line 35: / Line 33: @@
 * [https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AZK4G/ RJ45 Crimping Tool]
 * [https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OQ21CA/ Wire Stripper]
+If you are using keystones, you may want an [https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZK4D/ Punch Down Tool].
 For outdoor runs, get the following:
@@ Line 40: / Line 40: @@
 ;Notes
-* There are some cheap kits on amazon which include multiple items (e.g. crimper, wire stripper, tester, plugs). I cannot comment on the quality of them.
+* There are some cheap kits on amazon which include multiple items (e.g. crimper, wire stripper, tester, plugs). I did not buy those so IDK how good they are.
 * The basic cable tester only ensures continuity. You should do a quick [[iperf3]] test to make sure you're getting the speeds you expect.
 ==Terminating Ethernet Cables==
-[[File:Ethcable568a.gif | thumb | 500px | T568A (legacy)]]
 [[File:Ethcable568b.gif | thumb | 500px | T568B (recommended)]]
+[[File:Ethcable568a.gif | thumb | 250px | T568A]]
 [https://incentre.net/ethernet-cable-color-coding-diagram/ Resource]
@@ Line 58: / Line 58: @@
 There are two standards for terminating ethernet cables: T568A and T568B.
-T568B is the newer standard and the one I use.
 It doesn't matter which standard you use as long as it is consistent on both ends of the cable.
+==Resources==
+* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7nkvbPos0dE LTT Running Outdoor Ethernet]
+** For entertainment and showing how to hide runs.
+* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=noRk8jYAbSg How to Crimp Ethernet by AAFTech]
+==References==