PC Components: Difference between revisions

Latest revision as of 20:34, 18 December 2022

A brief guide on PC Part selection.
Having good specs does not necessarily make a PC part good.
Always read reviews.

Monitors

Go IPS every time. If you're really rich, you can go OLED.
I prefer 4K over 120 Hz but if you can find a good deal on QHD 120 Hz that's good too.
Note that some lower-end GPUS and adapters won't be able to output 4k60.

Peripherals

PC Parts

Case

These days, you should be able to get one with USB-C.

Heatsinks

The Noctua NH-D15 is one of the best air coolers available. Noctual often sells mounts for new sockets so you should be able to reuse it for several builds. However Noctua coolers are quite expensive. These days, there are now several cheaper dual-tower options like the Scythe Fuma 2 and Thermalright FC140/FS140.

Fans

Typically go with Arctic P12/P14 or Noctua fans.

You can buy 1500-2000 RPM PWM fans and tune down in the UEFI/BIOS.
Typically, several slower fans (600-800 rpm) is quieter than fewer faster fans.

For 3-pin fans, the range of fan speeds is typically much smaller. So try to get fans closer to 1000 rpm if you're going with DC fans.

Motherboards

The most important thing to look for is the VRM quality. Bad VRMs will throttle your CPU even at stock settings and with good cooling.
There are VRM tier lists for most motherboard chipsets.
Here is one for AMD.

Power Supplies

Check the check the PSU Tier List.
For high-end builds (i.e. Nvidia 3090 class builds), pick something in the A-tier section.
Corsair AX/HX/RMx, EVGA Plat/Gold, and Seasonic PSUs tend to be good choices.

In general, these will come with a 10 year warranty and 80+ Gold or better efficiency. If you can find a sale, 80+ Platinum power supplies are even better (e.g. Corsair HX).
Most expensive PSUs will keep the fan off when load is under 40% so try to aim for a high-wattage PSU. Furthermore, higher wattage will be better against GPU spikes.

SSDs

Go with M.2 nvme.
Samsung 970 Evo or 980 Pro are the default safe choices.
Avoid SSDs without DRAM. Check online for specs.

Hard Disks

Avoid for PC and Workstation builds. It's not worth the weight, or noise. See Data Hoarding for how to setup a NAS.

CPUs

Intel or AMD are both fine nowadays.

RAM

I always test RAM, both new and used, upon receiving it with Passmark's Memtest86.
Failing memtest86 means either the ram is bad, your settings are unstable, or your CPU's memory controller isn't good enough for the overclock.
Sometimes, XMP speeds can be good with a small amount of ram but will fail with more ram due to a week memory controller, particularly on earlier Ryzen CPUs.

For XMP overclocked ram, it's best not to mix ram models.
For JEDEC stock ram, it's usually okay to mix models as long as both have the same specs.

In general, you want the highest MHz and the smallest CAS latency.
For Ryzen 3000/5000 and Intel 8-12th gen, only up to DDR4-3200 is officially supported.
For most applications, DDR4 memory speeds have diminishing returns above 3000 MHz so don't spend too much extra.

Used vs New

Things which I prefer to buy used:

CPUs - very rarely DOA and very rarely goes bad with time. Just make sure there are no bent or missing pins.
Memory - easy to test with Memtest86, very rarely goes bad with time.
GPUs - if it's a newer model, it'll typically still have a warranty.

Things I prefer to buy new:

Cases - to make sure you get all the screws
Motherboards - to make sure you get accessories like the IO shield
SSDs and HDDs

If it's part of an entire build, the above used parts are fine to leave in.
Used motherboards are okay if part of a bundle, i.e. with CPU and cooler. Just make sure there are no broken pins.

@@ Line 4: / Line 4: @@
 ==Monitors==
-Go IPS or VA every time.
+Go IPS every time. If you're really rich, you can go OLED.
-If you're really rich, you can go OLED.
+I prefer 4K over 120 Hz but if you can find a good deal on QHD 120 Hz that's good too.
-I prefer 4K over 120 Hz but if you can find a good deal on QHD 120 Hz that's good too.
+Note that some lower-end GPUS and adapters won't be able to output 4k60.
 ==Peripherals==
@@ Line 13: / Line 13: @@
 ==PC Parts==
 ===Case===
-Go with something ~$100 with looks that you like.
+These days, you should be able to get one with USB-C.
-Gamers Nexus does airflow reviews but as long as it has 2 front fans with a clear area for intake, it's good enough for me.
 ===Heatsinks===
-Just go Noctua if you can afford it.
+The Noctua NH-D15 is one of the best air coolers available.
-NH-D14 and NH-D15 are excellent for ~$70. They will last 10+ years.
+Noctual often sells mounts for new sockets so you should be able to reuse it for several builds.
-Online reviews have also praised the NH-U14s and Scythe Fuma 2 for ~$60. However, I haven't used these.
+However Noctua coolers are quite expensive.
+These days, there are now several cheaper dual-tower options like the Scythe Fuma 2 and Thermalright FC140/FS140.
 ===Fans===
-Again, go Noctua. Their fans will last 10+ years.
+Typically go with Arctic P12/P14 or Noctua fans.
-Avoid all sleeve bearing fans.
+You can buy 1500-2000 RPM PWM fans and tune down in the UEFI/BIOS.<br>
-They'll make ticking sounds or perform poorly at low speeds.
+Typically, several slower fans (600-800 rpm) is quieter than fewer faster fans.
-Try to find PWM fans if you can but most motherboard will support DC control.
-Arctic fans are supposedly good budget fans but I don't have experience with them.
+For 3-pin fans, the range of fan speeds is typically much smaller. So try to get fans closer to 1000 rpm if you're going with DC fans.
-Buy high ~2000 RPM fans and tune down to 800-1000 rpm.
 ===Motherboards===
-The most important thing to look for is the VRM quality.
+The most important thing to look for is the VRM quality. Bad VRMs will throttle your CPU even at stock settings and with good cooling.<br>
 There are VRM tier lists for most motherboard chipsets.
 [https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/1137619-motherboard-vrm-tier-list-v2-currently-amd-only/ Here] is one for AMD.
-Aside for this, having multiple PCIe slots is a nice for multiple GPUs or capture cards.
-Both Ryzen and Intel consumer CPUs only have 16 lanes dedicated for PCIe. Other lanes are shared with the chipset.
-Often, you can tell which boards support 8x/8x by seeing if they two 16x slots with metal shields (for GPUs).
-Other boards will only support 4x on the secondary 16x slots going through the chipset.
-Some workstation motherboards will have PCH switches which allow for connecting more devices sharing the total bandwidth.
-If you need more than 2 GPUs or need more than 16x in parallel PCIe bandwidth then you will need to go HEDT (threadripper).
 ===Power Supplies===
-Look for something with a 10 year warranty, 80+ Gold or better, and a name brand.
+Check the check the [https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/ PSU Tier List].<br>
-% Japanese caps is typically marketed on the better PSUs.
+For high-end builds (i.e. Nvidia 3090 class builds), pick something in the A-tier section.<br>
+Corsair AX/HX/RMx, EVGA Plat/Gold, and Seasonic PSUs tend to be good choices.
-Corsair RMx, EVGA Gold, and Seasonic Focus PSUs are good choices.
+In general, these will come with a 10 year warranty and 80+ Gold or better efficiency.
-If you can find a sale, 80+ Platinum power supplies are even better (e.g. Corsair HX or AX).
+If you can find a sale, 80+ Platinum power supplies are even better (e.g. Corsair HX).
-+ Titanium is overkill IMO.
+Most expensive PSUs will keep the fan off when load is under 40% so try to aim for a high-wattage PSU.
-Try to aim for a high-wattage PSU (i.e. 600W for any single GPU, 1000W for dual GPU) so that the PSU fan never turns on.
+Furthermore, higher wattage will be better against GPU spikes.
-If in doubt, check the [https://linustechtips.com/topic/1116640-psucultists-psu-tier-list/ LTT Fourm PSU Tier List]
-Avoid PSUs worse than 80+ bronze (e.g. 80+ white or no rating).
-Avoid PSUs with less than 5 year warranties.
 ===SSDs===
-Try to go NVMe if you can. SATA is okay too if you run out of PCIe lanes though.
+Go with M.2 nvme.<br>
+Samsung 970 Evo or 980 Pro are the default safe choices.<br>
-Samsung SSDs are the most popular but are more expensive than others so I never buy them.
+Avoid SSDs without DRAM. Check online for specs.
-For PCIe 3.0, I typically go for HP EX920, HP EX950, or Adata SX8200.
-These are among the best and typically half the price of the Samsung drives.
-If you're on a budget and need a lot of storage, you can go for QLC drives such as Intel 660p.
-However, these have worse endurance and performance can suffer for large extended writes.
-Avoid SSDs without DRAM.
-Go Intel Optane only if you know what you're doing (i.e. heavy caching).
 ===Hard Disks===
-Avoid for PC builds. It's not worth the weight and noise. See [[Data Hoarding]] for how to setup a linux NAS.
+Avoid for PC and Workstation builds. It's not worth the weight, or noise.
+See [[Data Hoarding]] for how to setup a NAS.
 ===CPUs===
-As of 2020, Ryzen 3000 CPUs beat Intel 10th-gen CPUs heavily on value ($/thread), perform similarly in single-threaded applications, and offer PCIe 4.0.
+Intel or AMD are both fine nowadays.
 ===RAM===
-RAM is one of the safest things you can buy used.
 I always test RAM, both new and used, upon receiving it with [https://www.memtest86.com/ Passmark's Memtest86].
-Failing memtest86 means either the ram is bad, your OC is bad, or your CPU's memory controller isn't good enough for the OC.
+Failing memtest86 means either the ram is bad, your settings are unstable, or your CPU's memory controller isn't good enough for the overclock.
-Sometimes, an XMP OC can be good with a small amount of ram but will fail with more ram due to a week memory controller (e.g. on Ryzen 1000 CPUs).
+Sometimes, XMP speeds can be good with a small amount of ram but will fail with more ram due to a week memory controller, particularly on earlier Ryzen CPUs.
-For XMP overclocked ram, it's best not to mix ram models.
+For XMP overclocked ram, it's best not to mix ram models.<br>
 For JEDEC stock ram, it's usually okay to mix models as long as both have the same specs.
-In general, you want the highest MHz and the smallest CAS latency.
+In general, you want the highest MHz and the smallest CAS latency.<br>
-For Ryzen 3000/5000, you want to limit yourself to <= DDR4-3600 since the Infinity Fabric clock (FCLK) can only go up to 1800. Going higher than 3600 will cause the FCLK:UCLK multipliter to become 1:2, halving the FCLK. Officially, only up to DDR4-3200 is supported.
+For Ryzen 3000/5000 and Intel 8-12th gen, '''only up to DDR4-3200 is officially supported'''.<br>
-For most applications, memory speed has diminishing returns above 3000 so don't spend too much to get better speeds or latency.
+For most applications, DDR4 memory speeds have diminishing returns above 3000 MHz so don't spend too much extra.
+==Used vs New==
+Things which I prefer to buy used:
+* CPUs - very rarely DOA and very rarely goes bad with time. Just make sure there are no bent or missing pins.
+* Memory - easy to test with Memtest86, very rarely goes bad with time.
+* GPUs - if it's a newer model, it'll typically still have a warranty.
+Things I prefer to buy new:
+* Cases - to make sure you get all the screws
+* Motherboards - to make sure you get accessories like the IO shield
+* SSDs and HDDs
+If it's part of an entire build, the above used parts are fine to leave in.
+Used motherboards are okay if part of a bundle, i.e. with CPU and cooler. Just make sure there are no broken pins.